We have already been in Israel for 4 days. This time we have decided to have the city of Tel Aviv as our base, a city different from all and where there is an air of hope for things to be normal, but where the state of alertness and distrust in which things can change at any time is also perceived (read the previous posts of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem). Even before starting our trip around the world we had been curious about Palestine and now that we were so close why not try it. An internet search and good advice from our Airbnb hosts indicated that our best option would be Abraham Tours. This company offers a tour that lasts approximately 9 hours and would take us to the cities of Jericho, Bethlehem, Ramallah, and finally to the famous wall that divides Israel from Palestine.
An hour from Tel Aviv and 15 minutes after Jerusalem the landscape begins to be different; dry and with a desert appearance around this area we pick up our Palestinian guide. The warnings indicate that we are in Palestinian territory. Likewise, the warnings indicate that we are going to a height below sea level of approximately 300 meters where the temperature reaches 41 degrees Celsius and where we are getting closer to our first stop, the Jordan River. This river, where it is said Jesus was baptized flows just 9 kilometers into the Dead Sea (read Dead Sea post), and it is here, in this sacred place bordering Jordan where we also observe that a few meters on one side is the Jordanian army and on the other the Israeli army with not so friendly faces. Sorry, but this tour was going to take us to Palestine, right? Why are we seeing Israeli and non-Palestinian soldiers? – a question for our guide.
By the Jordan River, in the back you can see the Jordan military tower 
Jordan River
It turns out that the Palestinian state is divided into different zones called A, B and C. Zone A, is where the Palestinian authority has full control over security and civil matters. This is only 19% of the Palestinian territory and it is composed of the main cities and their surroundings. Zone B, the Palestinian authority has civil control, but here Palestinians and Israelis share military control, this is 21% of the Palestinian territory and includes small cities, towns and some land. Zone C, Israel has civil and military control, this represents the remaining 60% of the Palestinian territory. With this in mind it turns out that our first stop is part of Zone C, where we find ourselves in Palestine, but in fact controlled by the Israeli army. Can Palestinians reach zone C like the one we’re in now without any problem? – The reality is that they have to pass different control points that involve many difficulties and permits that are under the control of the Israeli army. Sometimes permits are granted sometimes they are not; this means that Palestinians are not free in their own territory. In fact, there are many Palestinians who have not been to cities that are less than 10 kilometers away. There are also Palestinians who have not seen their family and friends for many years as a result of a forced territory division and laws. The truth is that no matter how hard it sounds they seem to live in giant prison, a very sad reality in the middle of the XXI century.
After this stop we continue to our next destination, the city of Jericho which receives us with the following warning: “This road leads to area “A” under the Palestinian Authority. The entrance for Israeli citizens is forbidden, dangerous to your lives and against the Israeli law.” A very particular warning at an Israeli checkpoint. Yes, we are in a barricade controlled by the army of Israel and it is the main entrance to the city of Jericho in Palestine. No citizen of Israel can pass through here, but above all, and what is most surprising is that no Palestinian can leave the city freely. In short, Jericho is considered the oldest city in the world, according to different archaeological finds that have identified some of the oldest buildings before 10,000 BC. This small oasis is also the lowest inhabited point on earth, -240 meters below sea level. It is here that the Mount of Temptations can also be seen, where it is said Jesus fasted and resisted the temptations of the devil for forty days. This is a small city full of history that due to its strategic positioning along the Jordan border, has also witnessed multiple wars throughout its existence.
Zone A: Warning for Israeli citizens 
Jericho city in the background with a temperature of 41 degrees Celsius
It is almost 12 noon and we continue towards our next stop, the city of Ramallah. It’s about 40 minutes along a road in very good condition and completely surrounded by desert mountains. We are not sure how much longer to reach our destination, and for our surprise Google Maps does not indicate the distance or route between these two cities (try it yourself). At the entrance to Ramallah, we observe once again the barricade of the Israeli army with its respective warning that we had previously seen in Jericho, once again we are entering Zone A. Ramallah is the de facto capital of Palestine and provisional seat of government. We notice a change with respect to Jericho as there is more development and movement in the streets. There will be two stops here, the first in the Arafat Mausoleum, where the remains of the iconic leader Yasser Arafat lie; the Palestinian leader that led the Palestinian liberation movement and the construction of an independent state for many years. It is here that for the first time we have some contact with the Palestinian army since the tomb turns out to be guarded 24 hours a day by two members of the army who pose smiling at our side for the memorable photo.
After this short stop we continue to Al Manara Square (the Palestinian Times Square according to our guide). We walk around the area for about 30 minutes and observe the day to day life. Many people and cars pass through the square. It is easy to perceive that they are watching us and shyly approach to greet and welcome us. Where are you from? Do you like our land? Welcome and please tell the world that we exist and we want this to change, they tell us. We greet them and they hug us, they offer us food, and they even ask us for photos, they make us feel like we’re their friends in the first encounter. After a few minutes in the square we continue to a small market and again we are welcomed the same way. There we also ate some delicious fruits and later tasted an exquisite croissant at a small bakery. At this point, this experience had us thinking how brave Palestinians are. Most of these people have families a few kilometers away and have not seen them for many years, still they receive us with a hug and a smile from ear to ear.
Walking around Ramallah 
Ramallah Market 
A very colorful tea
Lunch time and we continue to Bethlehem. Our stop is in the Church of the Nativity where it is said Jesus was born. This is one of the oldest Christian churches in use. Located in a central point it is also a place to have contact with Palestinian citizens who remain friendly and talkative. It is here in this city where a delicious lunch awaits us at a local restaurant. Kebab, salad, humus, and pitas are accompanied by Shisha (hookah) and Palestinian beer. This lunch turns out to be unforgettable as we also have a short talk with some Palestinian inhabitants who reiterate once again their desire for an end to the conflict and for things to improve soon for them and their family.
Last stop and perhaps the most shocking in the middle of this conflict. A short 10-minute drive after lunch is where we begin to observe the horrific wall that divides these lands. Israel began construction in 2002 and has a projected total length of more than 700km to separate Israel from Palestine. Between 8 and 10 meters high, this wall represents the suffering of the Palestinians and the lack of willingness to dialogue from the Israeli authorities. We walked several meters along the wall where clearly the voices of protesters are represented by multiple and famous graffiti (for example Banksy) asking for freedom and the end of a conflict where the most vulnerable are the true victims.
The Wall that divides Israel and Palestine 
A day that will remain in our memories forever. We had just witnessed in our own flesh what life is like in an open-air jail. Yes, we think about our visit and although it sounds harsh this is the sad reality you witness after visiting Palestine. Maybe you agree or maybe not, but we came, we saw, and we experienced that they are not all terrorists and above all they are not all bad. What we saw were children, mothers, and families in the streets full of hope, families that have not been able to reunite in years because of discriminating laws that go against Palestinian freedom. We leave shocked, sad, and with the message from our Palestinian guide to the world. He told us very clearly to share with everyone:
“Be happy, respect, and enjoy every moment because life is short. Even in the hardest situations be grateful to be alive and put the best face you have, there is always hope and nobody can take that away from you.” – Don Tamer
Remember to visit our Instagram account @everywhereabroad. Take a look at our highlights where we share details of our experiences.
