jerusalem Archives - Everywhere Abroad

November 11, 2019May 18, 2020

There is always hope, never let anyone take it away from you! – Our experience in Palestine

We have already been in Israel for 4 days. This time we have decided to have the city of Tel Aviv as our base, a city different from all and where there is an air of hope for things to be normal, but where the state of alertness and distrust in which things can change at any time is also perceived (read the previous posts of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem). Even before starting our trip around the world we had been curious about Palestine and now that we were so close why not try it. An internet search and good advice from our Airbnb hosts indicated that our best option would be Abraham Tours. This company offers a tour that lasts approximately 9 hours and would take us to the cities of Jericho, Bethlehem, Ramallah, and finally to the famous wall that divides Israel from Palestine.

An hour from Tel Aviv and 15 minutes after Jerusalem the landscape begins to be different; dry and with a desert appearance around this area we pick up our Palestinian guide. The warnings indicate that we are in Palestinian territory. Likewise, the warnings indicate that we are going to a height below sea level of approximately 300 meters where the temperature reaches 41 degrees Celsius and where we are getting closer to our first stop, the Jordan River. This river, where it is said Jesus was baptized flows just 9 kilometers into the Dead Sea (read Dead Sea post), and it is here, in this sacred place bordering Jordan where we also observe that a few meters on one side is the Jordanian army and on the other the Israeli army with not so friendly faces. Sorry, but this tour was going to take us to Palestine, right? Why are we seeing Israeli and non-Palestinian soldiers? – a question for our guide.

By the Jordan River, in the back you can see the Jordan military tower

It turns out that the Palestinian state is divided into different zones called A, B and C. Zone A, is where the Palestinian authority has full control over security and civil matters. This is only 19% of the Palestinian territory and it is composed of the main cities and their surroundings. Zone B, the Palestinian authority has civil control, but here Palestinians and Israelis share military control, this is 21% of the Palestinian territory and includes small cities, towns and some land. Zone C, Israel has civil and military control, this represents the remaining 60% of the Palestinian territory. With this in mind it turns out that our first stop is part of Zone C, where we find ourselves in Palestine, but in fact controlled by the Israeli army. Can Palestinians reach zone C like the one we’re in now without any problem? – The reality is that they have to pass different control points that involve many difficulties and permits that are under the control of the Israeli army. Sometimes permits are granted sometimes they are not; this means that Palestinians are not free in their own territory. In fact, there are many Palestinians who have not been to cities that are less than 10 kilometers away. There are also Palestinians who have not seen their family and friends for many years as a result of a forced territory division and laws. The truth is that no matter how hard it sounds they seem to live in giant prison, a very sad reality in the middle of the XXI century.

After this stop we continue to our next destination, the city of Jericho which receives us with the following warning: “This road leads to area “A” under the Palestinian Authority. The entrance for Israeli citizens is forbidden, dangerous to your lives and against the Israeli law.” A very particular warning at an Israeli checkpoint. Yes, we are in a barricade controlled by the army of Israel and it is the main entrance to the city of Jericho in Palestine. No citizen of Israel can pass through here, but above all, and what is most surprising is that no Palestinian can leave the city freely. In short, Jericho is considered the oldest city in the world, according to different archaeological finds that have identified some of the oldest buildings before 10,000 BC. This small oasis is also the lowest inhabited point on earth, -240 meters below sea level. It is here that the Mount of Temptations can also be seen, where it is said Jesus fasted and resisted the temptations of the devil for forty days. This is a small city full of history that due to its strategic positioning along the Jordan border, has also witnessed multiple wars throughout its existence.

It is almost 12 noon and we continue towards our next stop, the city of Ramallah. It’s about 40 minutes along a road in very good condition and completely surrounded by desert mountains. We are not sure how much longer to reach our destination, and for our surprise Google Maps does not indicate the distance or route between these two cities (try it yourself). At the entrance to Ramallah, we observe once again the barricade of the Israeli army with its respective warning that we had previously seen in Jericho, once again we are entering Zone A. Ramallah is the de facto capital of Palestine and provisional seat of government. We notice a change with respect to Jericho as there is more development and movement in the streets. There will be two stops here, the first in the Arafat Mausoleum, where the remains of the iconic leader Yasser Arafat lie; the Palestinian leader that led the Palestinian liberation movement and the construction of an independent state for many years. It is here that for the first time we have some contact with the Palestinian army since the tomb turns out to be guarded 24 hours a day by two members of the army who pose smiling at our side for the memorable photo.

After this short stop we continue to Al Manara Square (the Palestinian Times Square according to our guide). We walk around the area for about 30 minutes and observe the day to day life. Many people and cars pass through the square. It is easy to perceive that they are watching us and shyly approach to greet and welcome us. Where are you from? Do you like our land? Welcome and please tell the world that we exist and we want this to change, they tell us. We greet them and they hug us, they offer us food, and they even ask us for photos, they make us feel like we’re their friends in the first encounter. After a few minutes in the square we continue to a small market and again we are welcomed the same way. There we also ate some delicious fruits and later tasted an exquisite croissant at a small bakery. At this point, this experience had us thinking how brave Palestinians are. Most of these people have families a few kilometers away and have not seen them for many years, still they receive us with a hug and a smile from ear to ear.

Lunch time and we continue to Bethlehem. Our stop is in the Church of the Nativity where it is said Jesus was born. This is one of the oldest Christian churches in use. Located in a central point it is also a place to have contact with Palestinian citizens who remain friendly and talkative. It is here in this city where a delicious lunch awaits us at a local restaurant. Kebab, salad, humus, and pitas are accompanied by Shisha (hookah) and Palestinian beer. This lunch turns out to be unforgettable as we also have a short talk with some Palestinian inhabitants who reiterate once again their desire for an end to the conflict and for things to improve soon for them and their family.

Last stop and perhaps the most shocking in the middle of this conflict. A short 10-minute drive after lunch is where we begin to observe the horrific wall that divides these lands. Israel began construction in 2002 and has a projected total length of more than 700km to separate Israel from Palestine. Between 8 and 10 meters high, this wall represents the suffering of the Palestinians and the lack of willingness to dialogue from the Israeli authorities. We walked several meters along the wall where clearly the voices of protesters are represented by multiple and famous graffiti (for example Banksy) asking for freedom and the end of a conflict where the most vulnerable are the true victims.

*The Wall that divides Israel and Palestine*

A day that will remain in our memories forever. We had just witnessed in our own flesh what life is like in an open-air jail. Yes, we think about our visit and although it sounds harsh this is the sad reality you witness after visiting Palestine. Maybe you agree or maybe not, but we came, we saw, and we experienced that they are not all terrorists and above all they are not all bad. What we saw were children, mothers, and families in the streets full of hope, families that have not been able to reunite in years because of discriminating laws that go against Palestinian freedom. We leave shocked, sad, and with the message from our Palestinian guide to the world. He told us very clearly to share with everyone:

“Be happy, respect, and enjoy every moment because life is short. Even in the hardest situations be grateful to be alive and put the best face you have, there is always hope and nobody can take that away from you.” – Don Tamer

Remember to visit our Instagram account @everywhereabroad. Take a look at our highlights where we share details of our experiences.

October 28, 2019October 28, 2019

Dead Sea

During our time in Israel we took a day trip to the Dead Sea. If you’ve never heard of it, the Dead Sea is a salt lake bordered by Israel, Jordan, and Palestine. It’s so interesting to visit because it is the saltiest place on Earth (33% salinity) and 431 meters (1,414 ft) below sea level which also makes it the lowest elevation point on Earth. It is 9 times as salty as the ocean and this level of salt makes you float making it almost impossible to swim.

What’s it like?

The area around the Dead Sea is very desert like. It’s amazing to see the landscape and on the way there you see all the beautiful views. The weather at the Dead Sea is mainly hot and humid. Temperatures can go up to 42 degrees Celsius (107 degrees Fahrenheit). We went in August which is one of the hottest months to visit and it was hot! The water temperature is also warm. Due to the salinity of the water it is recommended not to stay more than 20 minutes in the water. The sand was burning hot!! You can’t walk barefoot on the beach, not even to get in the water, you have to wear your flip flops till you reach the water and wear them again once you get out.

As you enter the water you will feel the salt crystals at the bottom which hurt a little bit and at this point you can float instead of trying to walk. When you try to reach for a handful of sand from the bottom you’ll get salt! There is no sand in the Dead Sea so you’ll get salt instead! Pretty cool! You’ll also feel a little bit oily, which is normal from all the salt in the water. When going in the water make sure you don’t have any cuts or those will burn badly. Shaving should be done 2 days prior. Also, try not to get water into your eyes, that will hurt (a lot because it happened to us).

Salt rocks. Take a look how white it looks under due to the high amounts of salt.

What beach to go to?

There are many beaches you can choose to visit in the Dead Sea. We chose Ein Bokek Beach (also spelled En Boqeq). The beach has all amenities such as bathrooms, changing rooms, showers, even an outdoor gym, and many options for food. There are also many hotels running along the beach if you want to stay a few nights. We enjoyed the day at Ein Bokek Beach and recommend this beach for your visit to the Dead Sea.

How to get there?

Since we try to avoid tours as much as we can we took a bus. From Jerusalem it is a 2 hour bus ride to the Dead Sea. We took bus line number 486 which stops at Ein Bokek Beach. If you prefer a tour, many tours are available for the Dead Sea. We recommend Abraham Tours, they have great tours from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

Health Benefits

Dead Sea minerals like magnesium, sodium, and potassium have been found to relieve skin diseases such as eczema, psoriasis, arthritis, and acne. The minerals have also been found to reduce skin impurities and respiratory conditions. While at the Dead Sea you can apply Dead Sea mud to yourself for the complete spa treatment after spending some time in the water. The Dead Sea mud has been found to reduce inflammation and relieve back pain among other benefits. Dead Sea products and cosmetics can be purchased along the beach for you to take home or for your use while there. We tried to make our own mud and failed at it so we went to buy some from the store nearby and it felt pretty good! Spa treatments are also available at most hotels.

We really enjoyed this trip to the Dead Sea, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Want to know more? Just ask us, or visit our Instagram/Facebook pages @everywhereabroad for highlights and more on the Dead Sea!

October 20, 2019October 20, 2019

Jerusalem

Holy to Jews, Muslims, and Christians this is where Christ died, was buried and was resurrected. In Islam, Jerusalem is said to be from where Muhammad rose into the heavens, and the Dome of the Rock makes this city the third holiest for Muslims after Mecca and Medina.

We visited Jerusalem for 2 days during our stay in Tel Aviv. Jerusalem was always a place we both had heard about since children and off course we wanted to see it for ourselves. Jerusalem is a modern city (the West) that is growing and we felt better here than in Tel Aviv. Within Jerusalem is the Old City which is a walled one-square kilometer. We got to the Old City’s Jaffa gate and walking into the city was a mix of feelings and a rush of excitement. Holy land, one of the oldest and symbolic places in the world.

The Old City of Jerusalem is divided into 4 quarters, Jewish, Muslim, Christian, and Armenian. We were very surprised to see how divided the holiest and sacred place on earth was, this is a fact that you sense within these walls, separation between people due to religion differences. Very disappointing. As you walk by the different quarters you can feel the city is wounded. There are still violent clashes between religions; mainly between the Jews and Muslims. There is an intense mix of feelings as you walk through the streets of Jerusalem and it is so personal depending on your beliefs and religion that you have to experience it for yourself.

The Western Wall

The Western Wall (Wailing Wall) in the Jewish Quarter is the holiest site in Judaism. The Wall is support to the Temple Mount and this small area is what is left of the wall from when the Romans destroyed the temple. The wall is divided on one side for women and the other for men. Many visit the wall to say their prayers or leave them on a piece of paper in between the cracks. The Western Wall is free and open daily. Women and men must dress modest when visiting The Western Wall.

We left our prayers here
Section of the Western Wall

Temple Mount

Within The Western Wall you can find The Temple Mount which is an elevated area holy to Jews and Muslims. Holy to Jews because this is where it is said that Abraham demonstrated his devotion to God by taking his son Isaac to be crucified. Temple Mount is also holy to Muslims because in Islamic tradition, this is where it is said Muhammad ascended to heaven in the seventh century. This area is the third holiest in Islam after Mecca and Medina. Currently, you can see the Al-Aqsa Mosque with the symbolic golden Dome of the Rock. There are 11 gates to enter the Temple Mount, one is reserved for non Muslims and the other 10 are all for Muslim access only. Each gate has an Israeli guard police post. Violence can occur anytime due to the Arab-Israeli conflict. To witness and to be standing there at one of the most controversial sites in the world was one an experience like no other that will stay in our memories forever.

The Western Wall and the Dome of the Rock

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

In the Christian quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem you can find The Church of the Holy Sepulchre which is one of Christianity’s most sacred sites. This is where Jesus was crucified, died, and rose from the dead. Since children we used to watch Easter movies about the life of Jesus and now that we were there all we wanted to do was follow his steps and walk where he walked. To enter the church we followed the path that Jesus walked carrying the cross on his way to his crucifixion. This path is called the Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows) which is marked by 14 stations of the cross (Via Crusis). The last five stations are inside The Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There is no need for a tour guide to be able to follow the Via Dolorosa, like us, you can do it on your own following the plaques that mark each station. A small guidebook might be helpful to help identify each station along the way since not all stations tell you exactly what happened there. Walking the Via Dolorosa was so rewarding and you can also spot many other important sites along the route, for example, the birthplace of the Virgin Mary.

When we arrived at The Church of the Holy Sepulchre we continued to identify the areas where Jesus was first stripped off his clothes, nailed to the cross, where he died (the Rock of Calvary which we touched), the site where he was taken down from the cross, and lastly the tomb of the Holy Sepulchre which we witness is empty. We enjoyed doing this very much and felt something special, this was something that as a kid you never think you will get to experience. The church is a bit crowded and so it’s better to get there early or in the late afternoon to avoid a lot of the crowds from tours.

Standing in front of The Church of the Holy Sepulchre

The Old City of Jerusalem comes with surprises and many mixed feelings. It is something you have to go see for yourself, even if not religious! While in Jerusalem we also went to The Mount of Olives which is another location of many biblical events. You’ll also get great views of the walled Old City of Jerusalem.

View of the Old City from The Mount of Olives

There are many tours to choose from depending on how you would like your experience inside the Old City. The only tour we did was a free 2 hour walking tour, which gave us an introduction to the old city and helped guide us through the different areas. We recommend this tour by SANDEMANs.

Don’t forget to visit our Instagram/Facebook pages @everywhereabroad for highlights and more on Jerusalem!

Tag: jerusalem

There is always hope, never let anyone take it away from you! – Our experience in Palestine

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