There is always hope, never let anyone take it away from you! – Our experience in Palestine

We have already been in Israel for 4 days. This time we have decided to have the city of Tel Aviv as our base, a city different from all and where there is an air of hope for things to be normal, but where the state of alertness and distrust in which things can change at any time is also perceived (read the previous posts of Tel Aviv and Jerusalem). Even before starting our trip around the world we had been curious about Palestine and now that we were so close why not try it. An internet search and good advice from our Airbnb hosts indicated that our best option would be Abraham Tours. This company offers a tour that lasts approximately 9 hours and would take us to the cities of Jericho, Bethlehem, Ramallah, and finally to the famous wall that divides Israel from Palestine.

Graffiti by Banksy

An hour from Tel Aviv and 15 minutes after Jerusalem the landscape begins to be different; dry and with a desert appearance around this area we pick up our Palestinian guide. The warnings indicate that we are in Palestinian territory. Likewise, the warnings indicate that we are going to a height below sea level of approximately 300 meters where the temperature reaches 41 degrees Celsius and where we are getting closer to our first stop, the Jordan River. This river, where it is said Jesus was baptized flows just 9 kilometers into the Dead Sea (read Dead Sea post), and it is here, in this sacred place bordering Jordan where we also observe that a few meters on one side is the Jordanian army and on the other the Israeli army with not so friendly faces. Sorry, but this tour was going to take us to Palestine, right? Why are we seeing Israeli and non-Palestinian soldiers? – a question for our guide.

It turns out that the Palestinian state is divided into different zones called A, B and C. Zone A, is where the Palestinian authority has full control over security and civil matters. This is only 19% of the Palestinian territory and it is composed of the main cities and their surroundings. Zone B, the Palestinian authority has civil control, but here Palestinians and Israelis share military control, this is 21% of the Palestinian territory and includes small cities, towns and some land. Zone C, Israel has civil and military control, this represents the remaining 60% of the Palestinian territory. With this in mind it turns out that our first stop is part of Zone C, where we find ourselves in Palestine, but in fact controlled by the Israeli army. Can Palestinians reach zone C like the one we’re in now without any problem? – The reality is that they have to pass different control points that involve many difficulties and permits that are under the control of the Israeli army. Sometimes permits are granted sometimes they are not; this means that Palestinians are not free in their own territory. In fact, there are many Palestinians who have not been to cities that are less than 10 kilometers away. There are also Palestinians who have not seen their family and friends for many years as a result of a forced territory division and laws. The truth is that no matter how hard it sounds they seem to live in giant prison, a very sad reality in the middle of the XXI century.

After this stop we continue to our next destination, the city of Jericho which receives us with the following warning: “This road leads to area “A” under the Palestinian Authority. The entrance for Israeli citizens is forbidden, dangerous to your lives and against the Israeli law.” A very particular warning at an Israeli checkpoint. Yes, we are in a barricade controlled by the army of Israel and it is the main entrance to the city of Jericho in Palestine. No citizen of Israel can pass through here, but above all, and what is most surprising is that no Palestinian can leave the city freely. In short, Jericho is considered the oldest city in the world, according to different archaeological finds that have identified some of the oldest buildings before 10,000 BC. This small oasis is also the lowest inhabited point on earth, -240 meters below sea level. It is here that the Mount of Temptations can also be seen, where it is said Jesus fasted and resisted the temptations of the devil for forty days. This is a small city full of history that due to its strategic positioning along the Jordan border, has also witnessed multiple wars throughout its existence.

Mount of Temptations

It is almost 12 noon and we continue towards our next stop, the city of Ramallah. It’s about 40 minutes along a road in very good condition and completely surrounded by desert mountains. We are not sure how much longer to reach our destination, and for our surprise Google Maps does not indicate the distance or route between these two cities (try it yourself). At the entrance to Ramallah, we observe once again the barricade of the Israeli army with its respective warning that we had previously seen in Jericho, once again we are entering Zone A. Ramallah is the de facto capital of Palestine and provisional seat of government. We notice a change with respect to Jericho as there is more development and movement in the streets. There will be two stops here, the first in the Arafat Mausoleum, where the remains of the iconic leader Yasser Arafat lie; the Palestinian leader that led the Palestinian liberation movement and the construction of an independent state for many years. It is here that for the first time we have some contact with the Palestinian army since the tomb turns out to be guarded 24 hours a day by two members of the army who pose smiling at our side for the memorable photo.

Yasser Arafats tomb

After this short stop we continue to Al Manara Square (the Palestinian Times Square according to our guide). We walk around the area for about 30 minutes and observe the day to day life. Many people and cars pass through the square. It is easy to perceive that they are watching us and shyly approach to greet and welcome us. Where are you from? Do you like our land? Welcome and please tell the world that we exist and we want this to change, they tell us. We greet them and they hug us, they offer us food, and they even ask us for photos, they make us feel like we’re their friends in the first encounter. After a few minutes in the square we continue to a small market and again we are welcomed the same way. There we also ate some delicious fruits and later tasted an exquisite croissant at a small bakery. At this point, this experience had us thinking how brave Palestinians are. Most of these people have families a few kilometers away and have not seen them for many years, still they receive us with a hug and a smile from ear to ear.

Lunch time and we continue to Bethlehem. Our stop is in the Church of the Nativity where it is said Jesus was born. This is one of the oldest Christian churches in use. Located in a central point it is also a place to have contact with Palestinian citizens who remain friendly and talkative. It is here in this city where a delicious lunch awaits us at a local restaurant. Kebab, salad, humus, and pitas are accompanied by Shisha (hookah) and Palestinian beer. This lunch turns out to be unforgettable as we also have a short talk with some Palestinian inhabitants who reiterate once again their desire for an end to the conflict and for things to improve soon for them and their family.

Church of the Nativity

Last stop and perhaps the most shocking in the middle of this conflict. A short 10-minute drive after lunch is where we begin to observe the horrific wall that divides these lands. Israel began construction in 2002 and has a projected total length of more than 700km to separate Israel from Palestine. Between 8 and 10 meters high, this wall represents the suffering of the Palestinians and the lack of willingness to dialogue from the Israeli authorities. We walked several meters along the wall where clearly the voices of protesters are represented by multiple and famous graffiti (for example Banksy) asking for freedom and the end of a conflict where the most vulnerable are the true victims.

The Wall that divides Israel and Palestine

A day that will remain in our memories forever. We had just witnessed in our own flesh what life is like in an open-air jail. Yes, we think about our visit and although it sounds harsh this is the sad reality you witness after visiting Palestine. Maybe you agree or maybe not, but we came, we saw, and we experienced that they are not all terrorists and above all they are not all bad. What we saw were children, mothers, and families in the streets full of hope, families that have not been able to reunite in years because of discriminating laws that go against Palestinian freedom. We leave shocked, sad, and with the message from our Palestinian guide to the world. He told us very clearly to share with everyone:

“Be happy, respect, and enjoy every moment because life is short. Even in the hardest situations be grateful to be alive and put the best face you have, there is always hope and nobody can take that away from you.” – Don Tamer

Remember to visit our Instagram account @everywhereabroad. Take a look at our highlights where we share details of our experiences.

¡Siempre hay esperanza y nunca dejes que nadie te diga lo contrario! – Nuestra experiencia en Palestina

Ya llevamos 4 días en Israel. Esta vez hemos decidido tener como base la ciudad de Tel Aviv, una ciudad diferente a todas y donde se respira un aire de esperanza, pero donde también es latente el estado de alerta y desconfianza en que las cosas pueden cambiar en cualquier momento (leer también los blogs anteriores de Tel Aviv y Jerusalén). Desde que estábamos en Estados Unidos habíamos tenido la curiosidad de visitar Palestina y pues ya estando tan cerca porque no intentarlo. Una búsqueda en internet y un buen consejo de nuestros anfitriones en nuestro Airbnb nos indican que nuestra mejor opción es Abraham tours. Esta compañía ofrece un tour que dura aproximadamente 9 horas y que nos llevaría a las ciudades de Jericó, Belén, Ramala, y por último al tan famoso muro que divide Israel de Palestina.

Obra por Banksy

Una hora desde Tel Aviv y después de pasar hace tan solo quince minutos Jerusalén ya el paisaje empieza ser diferente; seco y con un aspecto desértico los avisos indican que entramos a territorio Palestino. Así mismo, los avisos indican que vamos a una altura por debajo del nivel de mar de aproximadamente 300 metros, es en este punto también donde la temperatura llega a los 41 grados centígrados y donde ya nos estamos acercando a nuestra primera parada, el río Jordán. Este río, donde se dice fue bautizado Jesús desemboca a tan solo 9 kilómetros en el Mar Muerto (leer Blog del Mar Muerto). Y es aquí, en este sitio sagrado y limite con Jordania, donde también observamos que a pocos metros de un lado esta el ejercito de Jordania y del otro el ejercito israelí con cara de no muy buenos amigos. ¿perdón, pero este tour nos iba a llevar a Palestina, cierto? ¿Por qué estamos viendo soldados israelíes y no palestinos? – una pregunta para nuestro guía.

Resulta que el estado Palestino esta dividido en diferentes zonas denominadas A, B y C. La zona A es donde la autoridad Palestina tiene el control total sobre la seguridad y sobre asuntos civiles. Esto es tan solo el 19% del territorio Palestino y prácticamente son las ciudades principales y sus alrededores. La Zona B la autoridad Palestina tiene el control civil, pero allí Palestinos e israelíes comparten el control militar, esto es un 21% del territorio Palestino y lo comprenden ciudades pequeñas, pueblos y algunas tierras. La Zona C Israel tiene el control civil y militar, esto supone el 60% restante del territorio Palestino. Con esto en mente resulta que nuestra primera parada es parte de la Zona C, donde nos encontramos en Palestina, es a su vez es controlada por el ejercito israelí. ¿Y pueden llegar palestinos a una Zona C como la que estamos nosotros sin ningún problema? – La realidad es que tienen que pasar diferentes puntos de control que suponen muchas dificultades por tiempo y permisos que están bajo control de el ejercito Israelí, esto significa que no son libres en su propio territorio y que de hecho existen muchos palestinos que no conocen ciudades que están a menos de 10 kilómetros de distancia y palestinos que no ven a sus familiares y amigos hace muchos años consecuencia de una división implantada, la verdad es que por duro que suene parece que viven en cárceles gigantes, una realidad muy triste en pleno siglo XXI.

Después de esta parada seguimos a nuestro siguiente destino, la ciudad de Jericó y la cual nos recibe con la siguiente advertencia: “Este camino lleva a una Zona A bajo la supervisión de la autoridad Palestina. La entrada para ciudadanos de Israel es prohibida, peligrosa para sus vidas y va en contra de la ley israelí”. Un aviso muy particular en un punto de control israelí. Sí, estamos en una barricada controlada por el ejercito de Israel y es la entrada principal a la ciudad de Jericó en Palestina. Por aquí ningún ciudadano de Israel puede pasar, pero sobretodo y lo que más sorprende es que ningún Palestino puede salir de su ciudad libremente. En fin, Jericó es considerada la ciudad más antigua del mundo. Según diferentes hallazgos arqueológicos han identificado los edificios más antiguos como anteriores a 10.000 a.C. Este pequeño oasis es también el punto habitado más bajo de la tierra, -240 metros por debajo del nivel del mar. Es aquí mismo donde también se divisa el Monte de las Tentaciones, donde se dice Cristo ayunó y resistió las tentaciones del diablo por cuarenta días. Esta es una pequeña ciudad llena de historia que por su posicionamiento estratégico junto a la frontera de Jordania también ha sido testigo de múltiples guerras a lo largo de su existencia. 

Monte de las Tentaciones

Ya son casi las 12 del medio día y seguimos rumbo a nuestra siguiente parada, la ciudad de Ramala. Son más o menos 40 minutos por una carretera en muy buenas condiciones y rodeada totalmente por montañas desérticas. Tenemos la duda de cuanto falta para llegar a nuestro destino, pero el famoso Google Maps para nuestra sorpresa no indica cual es la distancia o ruta entre estas dos ciudades (hagan ustedes mismos esta búsqueda). En la entrada a Ramala, observamos una vez mas la barricada del ejercito israelí con su respectiva advertencia que ya habíamos visto en Jericó, una vez mas estamos entrando en una Zona A. Ramala es la capital de facto de Palestina y sede provisional de gobierno. Aquí notamos un cambio con respecto a Jericó ya que se observan un poco mas de desarrollo y movimiento en las calles. Aquí son dos paradas, la primera en el Mausoleo de Arafat, donde yacen los restos del emblemático líder Yasser Arafat quien lidero por muchos anos el movimiento de liberación de Palestina y la construcción de un estado independiente. Es aquí donde por primera vez tenemos algún tipo de contacto con el ejercito Palestino ya que su tumba resulta ser custodiada las 24 horas del día por dos miembros del ejercito quien a su vez posan sonrientes a nuestro lado para la foto del recuerdo.

Mausoleo de Arafat, tumba de Yasser Arafat

Después de esta corta parada seguimos hasta el Al Manara square (el Times Square Palestino según nuestro guía). Por aquí caminamos unos 20 minutos y observamos el movimiento del día a día. Mucha gente y distintos carros pasan por la plaza. Es fácil percibir que nos están observando y tímidamente se acercan a saludarnos y a darnos la bienvenida. ¿De donde son? ¿Les gusta nuestra tierra? Bienvenidos y por favor cuéntele al mundo que existimos y queremos que esto cambie nos dicen. Nosotros saludamos y ellos nos abrazan, nos ofrecen comida y hasta nos piden fotos, la verdad nos sentimos sus amigos en el primer contacto. Después de unos minutos en la plaza seguimos a un pequeño mercado y se repite la historia. Allí también comemos algunas frutas deliciosas y mas adelante probamos un exquisito croissant que el panadero observa nos comemos con alegría. Pensar que muchas de estas personas no ven a sus familias hace años y que tan solo están a pocos kilómetros de distancia, pero vaya fuerza, todavía nos reciben con un abrazo y una sonrisa de oreja a oreja.

Hora del almuerzo y seguimos a Belén. Nuestra parada es en la Iglesia de la Natividad, aquí se dice nació Jesús y es uno de los templos cristianos en uso mas antiguo. Ubicada en el centro también es un punto para tener contacto con los ciudadanos Palestinos que a su vez siguen siendo amigables y conversadores. Es aquí en esta ciudad donde nos espera un delicioso almuerzo que acompañado de Shisha (hookah) y cerveza palestina resulta ser inolvidable. Una charla corta con algunos habitantes Palestinos que reiteran una vez más su deseo del fin al conflicto y que todo mejore pronto para ellos y su familia. – El tema del conflicto y la política es inevitable en estas tierras.

Iglesia de la Natividad

Última parada y tal vez la mas impactante en medio de este conflicto. Después del almuerzo y a tan solo 10 minutos empezamos a observar un triste muro que divide estas tierras. Israel comenzó su construcción en 2002 y tiene proyectado una longitud total de mas de 700km para separar Israel de Palestina. Entre 8 y 10 metros de alto, este muro representa el sufrimiento de los palestinos y a su vez tal vez la falta de voluntad de dialogo de las autoridades israelíes. Son varios metros los que caminamos por este muro y donde claramente las voces de protesta están representadas por múltiples y famosos grafitis (por ejemplo, Banksy) pidiendo libertad y el fin de un conflicto donde los mas vulnerables son las verdaderas victimas.

Muro de separación Israel-Palestina

Un día que quedara marcado en nuestras memorias por siempre. Acabábamos de presenciar en carne propia como es la vida en una cárcel al aire libre. Sí, eso pensamos de nuestra visita y aunque suene duro esta es la triste realidad que se siente después de visitar Palestina. Tal vez usted este de acuerdo o tal vez no, pero nosotros vinimos y vimos en carne propia que no son todos terroristas y sobretodo que no son todos malos. Lo que vimos fueron niños, madres, jóvenes y familias en las calles llenos de esperanza. Familias que no se han podido reunir en años por leyes incoherentes y en contra de la libertad. Nos vamos un poco impactados, tristes y con el mensaje de nuestro guía Palestino para el mundo y que nos dijo muy claramente compartiéramos con todos: 

“Sean felices, respeten las diferencias y disfruten cada momento de la vida porque la vida es corta. Por mas difícil que sea su situación agradezca por estar vivo y ponga siempre su mejor cara. En este mundo siempre tiene que haber esperanza y nunca dejes que nadie te la quite”. – Don Tamer.

Recuerden visitar nuestra pagina de Instagram @everywhereabroad. Les recomendamos las historias destacadas donde compartimos en detalle todas nuestras esperiencias.

The Walled off Hotel por Banksy

Dead Sea

During our time in Israel we took a day trip to the Dead Sea. If you’ve never heard of it, the Dead Sea is a salt lake bordered by Israel, Jordan, and Palestine. It’s so interesting to visit because it is the saltiest place on Earth (33% salinity) and 431 meters (1,414 ft) below sea level which also makes it the lowest elevation point on Earth. It is 9 times as salty as the ocean and this level of salt makes you float making it almost impossible to swim.

What’s it like?

The area around the Dead Sea is very desert like. It’s amazing to see the landscape and on the way there you see all the beautiful views. The weather at the Dead Sea is mainly hot and humid. Temperatures can go up to 42 degrees Celsius (107 degrees Fahrenheit). We went in August which is one of the hottest months to visit and it was hot! The water temperature is also warm. Due to the salinity of the water it is recommended not to stay more than 20 minutes in the water. The sand was burning hot!! You can’t walk barefoot on the beach, not even to get in the water, you have to wear your flip flops till you reach the water and wear them again once you get out.

As you enter the water you will feel the salt crystals at the bottom which hurt a little bit and at this point you can float instead of trying to walk. When you try to reach for a handful of sand from the bottom you’ll get salt! There is no sand in the Dead Sea so you’ll get salt instead! Pretty cool! You’ll also feel a little bit oily, which is normal from all the salt in the water. When going in the water make sure you don’t have any cuts or those will burn badly. Shaving should be done 2 days prior. Also, try not to get water into your eyes, that will hurt (a lot because it happened to us).

Salt rocks. Take a look how white it looks under due to the high amounts of salt.

What beach to go to?

There are many beaches you can choose to visit in the Dead Sea. We chose Ein Bokek Beach (also spelled En Boqeq). The beach has all amenities such as bathrooms, changing rooms, showers, even an outdoor gym, and many options for food. There are also many hotels running along the beach if you want to stay a few nights. We enjoyed the day at Ein Bokek Beach and recommend this beach for your visit to the Dead Sea.

How to get there?

Since we try to avoid tours as much as we can we took a bus. From Jerusalem it is a 2 hour bus ride to the Dead Sea. We took bus line number 486 which stops at Ein Bokek Beach. If you prefer a tour, many tours are available for the Dead Sea. We recommend Abraham Tours, they have great tours from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.

Health Benefits

Dead Sea minerals like magnesium, sodium, and potassium have been found to relieve skin diseases such as eczema, psoriasis, arthritis, and acne. The minerals have also been found to reduce skin impurities and respiratory conditions. While at the Dead Sea you can apply Dead Sea mud to yourself for the complete spa treatment after spending some time in the water. The Dead Sea mud has been found to reduce inflammation and relieve back pain among other benefits. Dead Sea products and cosmetics can be purchased along the beach for you to take home or for your use while there. We tried to make our own mud and failed at it so we went to buy some from the store nearby and it felt pretty good! Spa treatments are also available at most hotels.

We really enjoyed this trip to the Dead Sea, it’s a must if you’re in the area. Want to know more? Just ask us, or visit our Instagram/Facebook pages @everywhereabroad for highlights and more on the Dead Sea!

Tel Aviv Israel

We arrived in Tel Aviv on August 10th and stayed until August 18th. This was enough time for us to make day trips from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem, Palestine (the West Bank), and the Dead Sea of which I will discuss on separate posts. Tel Aviv was not our favorite place, however, we recommend traveling there for the experience. We traveled to Israel because we were very curious to see what life was like in a country that has been in conflict politically and religiously. It is an eye opener of the current situation between the Israeli and Palestinians. There is definitely a lot to learn here and to draw your own conclusions rather than believe everything the media shows. Feel free to contact us for more on our personal thoughts regarding the conflict that is ongoing! Without getting deep into politics and religion and because this is a travel blog I will tell you more of our time in Tel Aviv.

Our Experience

If you have traveled to Tel Aviv you might be in love with it or had a very good time at nightclubs, bars, and restaurants. This is the case for most people that visit Tel Aviv. Many young people from all over the world have made Tel Aviv their home and have careless attitude towards their surroundings. We felt a heavy atmosphere from the moment we arrived at the airport; people were not smiling (we smile all the time so this was not a good sign), it was so true that when someone did smile at us a couple days later we were amazed! Some parts of the city smelled very bad, homeless people doing drugs everywhere at night, and there was always a broken pipe somewhere along the way releasing some bad smells.

The contrast between old and new was very traumatizing for us. We would see a very old building that looked like it was about to fall apart and when you enter it is something modern and completely different. This was the case of our airbnb and many other buildings around. Very weird. We stayed near the old town about 5 min walk from Florentine street (hipster artsy neighborhood). All this, plus the idea of knowing that at any moment you can have a terrorist attack and people did not seem to notice any of it, like they are used to it and they live in paradise blew our minds!

It is definitely an uncomfortable feeling that took us about 2 days to digest. I would describe it as a city that wants to be free and grow, the young want to be liberal and live in peace, sadly, from what we could see there is still a long way to go. I have to clarify that locals were very nice to us always. It’s just a mix of things that do not go together. At the same time you can sense that in Tel Aviv they are trying to make things work.

The people

In case you did not know, people in Tel Aviv are mainly Jews. Their religion is Judaism and speak Hebrew. In Tel Aviv people are more liberal. Gays and lesbians are encouraged and marihuana is legal. Religion is not followed by all in Tel Aviv and some don’t even care of what is happening in other areas of the country. But you will see soldiers walk around with their shoulder strapped M-16s and you will be checked at all transportation terminals before entering back into the city.

Shabbat

It is very important that when traveling to Israel you keep in mind Shabbat when making plans. Shabbat or Sabbath is a Jewish holiday. In Judaism it is the seventh day of the week and day of rest. They refrain from work and many businesses are closed and transportation can be hard to find except for taxis which you can find. It is a time for Jews to rest and spend time with family. Traditional meals are prepared and festivities begin with a blessing. Shabbat starts right before sunset on Friday night so expect many places to close and public transportation to stop about a couple hours before sunset until the appearance of three stars on Saturday night. At this time things will start to go back to normal with many restaurants /bars opening up as late as 8 or 9pm and Sunday is the first day of the week and everyone goes back to work. In Tel Aviv we noticed it is not observed as strictly as in Jerusalem for example. This is because Tel Aviv is more modern and some of the younger people don’t follow it. Also because in some areas there are Muslims living.

Our recommendation is to book your plans such as tours and visiting religious sites between Sunday through Thursday and for early Friday before 4pm. Don’t plan much on Saturday, stay local, resting or exploring around the area where you are staying.

Transportation

Taxi from Ben Gurion airport will cost about 200 shekels (almost $60usd). There is also a bus from the airport for 9.30 shekels ($2.70usd). To move around the city you can use taxis, buses, bikes, tram, and electric scooters. Make sure to get the Rav-Kav card that you can fill for rides. We mainly walked and used the bus system which is very good.

Food

Tel Aviv has very good restaurants and many options when it comes to food. We enjoyed the food and even ate much healthier than normal. The food is fresh and prepared using healthier options and many dishes are dairy free. People are vegan and some Kosher (if religious). Kosher foods are foods that are suitable for a Jew to eat as stated in the Torah (Hebrew bible). There’s a lot of delicious international restaurants. One of our favorites was Saluf & Sons which is Yemen, very lively and truly great experience. They concentrate on home style cooking with many rice dishes, great salads, stews, and more. We also visited some of the markets and tried all sorts of local foods. Carmel Market and the upscale Sarona Market have many options. In Carmel Market you can find the famous Hummus HaCarmel featured in Netflix on the series “Somebody feed Phil”, this is the place to try the best authentic hummus (don’t miss it!).

Tip: Tel Aviv and Israel in general is expensive. Sometimes way too expensive! Keep this is mind when planning a trip there.

Places to visit

While in Tel Aviv we visited the Jaffa Flea Market, Carmel Market, the upscale Sarona Market, Tel Aviv Boardwalk, Jaffa Old City, and walked around Rothschild Boulevard. The boardwalk was our favorite and is very nice walk along the beach.

Remember, to visit our Instagram and Facebook pages to see more about Tel Aviv. @everywhereabroad